So you see that if you compare the diamonds by weight, the thick-edge diamond is lower priced than the Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond; and if you saw a "Compare at $6,280" ad, the price tag of $5,200 would appear to be a good value. But in reality you are paying a premium for the weight, while only achieving the visual effect of an .87 ct. diamond, which if properly cut, would have cost $455 less, or $4745 ... the one carat thick edge diamond is then hardly the value it was cut to appear to be.

In a face-up position, the thick edge diamond from the above example is difficult to distinguish from an Ultimate Ideal Cut. The difficulty lies in the fact that the top of the diamond is properly proportioned, and the bottom of the diamond is properly proportioned. The diamond is much more attractive than the spread shallow cut diamond from the previous example. However, when the top and bottom of the thick edge diamond are combined with the extra weight hidden in the middle, the result is a loss of brilliance when compared to an Ultimate Ideal Cut. Simply turning the diamond to its profile view shows the thick edge and gives away the hidden extra weight. Diamonds with thick edges just leave you paying for extra weight, while delivering less brilliance, and a smaller visual size.

Thick edge diamonds are most commonly found when the diamond's weight is exactly one carat, or just slightly over a carat. The desire to achieve the magic one carat weight is responsible for the way the diamond is cut. You may see low quality thick edge one carat diamonds advertised "on sale" for $1,995 - $2,995.

Hidden just beneath the outside edge of many non-ideal cut diamonds is something called a "natural". A natural is part of the rough exterior of the original diamond crystal. Diamond cutters in many non-ideal diamond cutting shops receive the largest salary for leaving the most naturals on the edge of a diamond (up to 4). The reason for leaving naturals on the edge of the diamond is that it provides proof to the cutting foreman that the greatest possible weight has been retained. Often these naturals will leave a little flat spot on the circumference of a diamond. In other instances, these naturals may be completely concealed just below the edge, and invisible from the top view. In this situation, it is legal for a diamond to be graded as flawless or nearly flawless (providing that everything else is appropriately clear), in spite of the fact that these naturals are visible from the side view.

A natural can be similar in appearance to a chip, but can be distinguished from a chip by crystal growth lines which will appear on the natural. Because naturals, if present, occur in a north-south-east-west orientation, a non-ideal cut diamond already set in a 4-prong mounting may never show any evidence of naturals, and you may only discover them 20 years later when the diamond is unset for a new mounting.

A Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond is always perfectly round and free of naturals.

Facet symmetry: in an Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond means that all facets (flat polished surfaces) are in perfect symmetrical balance. Facets on opposite sides are an absolute mirror reflection of one another. Note the 16 small facets around the perimeter of the diamond at left. Each one is exactly the same size.

In diamonds not cut to ideal proportions, it is often found that many of the facets intended to match are a little longer, or wider than the facet on the opposite side. This mismatching of facet size can make a diamond look lop sided, and aesthetically unbalanced. This is a minor consideration of cutting, but perfect facet symmetry is just one more small extra that contributes to the extraordinary brilliance of an ideally proportioned diamond.

Facet Junction Alignment: in an Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond, this results in all facet points on the top half of the diamond meeting exactly the facet points on the bottom half of the diamond. This proper alignment is important for a diamond with crisp, brilliant reflections.

Improper facet junction alignment results in a jumbled appearance of brilliance. Again, the difference between proper and improper facet alignment in a diamond is minor, and someone could wear an otherwise well cut diamond with facet misalignment and be perfectly happy until she compared the crisp brilliance of an Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond with a diamond of improper facet alignment and its more jumbled brilliance.

Finish: Diamond can be the most optically pure substance in the world, and that together with its hardness makes it capable of being polished to the most highly reflective surface of any gem. In spite of this, some cutters will try to hurry the process of polishing, or they may use an old polishing wheel with tiny grooves worn into the surface, resulting in streaks or drag lines on the polished surfaces. This is most common in small diamonds of Indian origin, which are used primarily in "discount" jewelry. Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut Diamonds will always have proper facet symmetry and a mirror smooth finish. These finishing details result in a diamond with extraordinarily sharp, crisp, brilliant reflective surfaces.

The preceding examples have shown some of the common deviations from Ultimate Ideal Cutting. it is important to remember that there are an infinite number of ways to cut a diamond improperly, but only one way to cut the diamond properly-to Ideal Proportions.

The Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut Diamond is the finest cut diamond available in the world today, and thus the most brilliant.

                From here we will turn to the other aspects of diamond quality, and review facts which will assist you in judging color, clarity, and carat weight, in choosing a diamond.

Ask someone who received a diamond between 1940 and 1970 what quality diamond she has, and more often than not, she will proudly tell you that hers is a "blue-white perfect". These terms were used to describe a diamond with the highest white color, and flawless clarity. It is a diamond quality which is very rare in nature - only one in six-hundred diamonds actually qualifies. In fact, the terms "blue-white" and "perfect" were so misused, that "blue-white" has been banned from use within the jewelry industry, and the use of the term "perfect" very strictly defined, with penalties now existing for its misuse.

The problem of loose interpretations of diamond grades has been a plague on the jewelry industry - and on consumers, for years. Part of the problem stems from a genuine lack of knowledge on the part of some untrained individuals who call themselves "jewelers". Another aspect of the problem in many cases is the high value of such a small object, and the difficulty in precise verification of quality grades once a diamond has been set into a piece of jewelry. Unfortunately, the desire of some retailers to appear competitive can lead them to misinterpret a diamond's actual quality, resulting in apparent "discounts" of 10%, 20%, even 50%.

Today, diamond grading is a very technical skill requiring proper equipment and a trained eye. The misleading descriptive terms used years ago (like "blue-white perfect") have been replaced by terminology instituted by the Gemological Institute of America, and recognized world-wide.

The Gemological Institute of America (G.I.A.) gem laboratories in New York and California issue diamond grading reports to verify color and clarity of diamonds. These reports, the result of testing under laboratory conditions, are very accurate and highly regarded within the jewelry industry.

The color and clarity of a G.I.A. Diamond Grading Report is accepted as law within the jewelry industry, but while a G.I.A. report lists measurements of a diamond's proportions, it makes no qualitative judgment regarding overall cutting proportions. The report tells you nothing about how close or how far the diamond is from the Ultimate Ideal Cut.

This failure to grade the most important factor of a diamond's quality, the cutting proportions, has contributed to a decline in cutting quality in America. As a result of the G.I.A. not grading cutting, many cutters today do what is called "cutting for a report". They cut a diamond for maximum weight which will show high quality color and clarity on a G.I.A. Diamond Grading Report. To many consumers, this would then appear to be documentation that the diamond is of very high quality; yet without a qualitative analysis of the diamond's cut, the value of the diamond can vary as much as 50%.

A G.I.A. Diamond Grading Report is only a statement of quality in regard to color and clarity, the report merely lists weight and measurements of the diamond's proportions.

How can you be sure the diamond you are purchasing is an Ultimate Ideal Cut?Certainly the new American Gem Society Diamond Quality Document (DQD), which includes a comprehensive cut grading report similar to the Cross Diamond Cut Grading Scale, is definitive on the subject.

A G.I.A. report is highly accurate for evaluating color and clarity, and is considered law on these two points within the jewelry industry. As mentioned earlier, however, a G.I.A. report does not make any qualitative statement about cutting. An important point regarding a G.I.A. grade is that anyone calling himself a jeweler, regardless of his qualifications, can assign a G.I.A. grade to any diamond. The accuracy of the grade and the manner in which the grade is used can have a major impact on the appearance of value of the diamond under consideration.

What happens when a diamond is loosely graded, and offered for sale at a discount, can be seen in the following example. Watch how the apparent "20% discount" appears, and then disappears (G.I.A. color grades: D, E, F, G, H, 1, J, K, L, M, N, O-Z. G.1.A. clarity grades: Flawless, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, I3):

Let's say you see a 1/2 carat diamond advertised at $1,350.00, 20% off the regular price of $1,700.00. When you inquire about the quality of the diamond, you're told it is a G-H, VS clarity.

A diamond of average cutting quality, with G color and VS1 clarity, is valued at $1,700.00.

A diamond of average cutting quality, with H color and VS2 clarity, is valued at $1,350.00.

Because of the value involved, jewelers buy diamonds with exact grades. But some jewelers try to create the impression that you may be getting more than you paid for, by using approximate grades to sell diamonds.

At first, the "sale" sounds like a good deal, but the 20% "savings" is a result of a loose interpretation of G.I.A. grading. The split grade (using two grades, like E-F, or G-H) and uncommitted clarity grade are techniques used by some retailers that customers would never know to question... unless they know the facts. Would the buyer of this diamond receive a GVS1 or an HVS2? When a diamond is accurately graded for color and clarity, discounts and savings often vanish into thin air.

Beyond the use of split grades of color and clarity, in order to make a diamond appear more valuable, there is an even more serious tactic sometimes used to create the appearance of value in a diamond.

                It is sometimes referred to as "grade creep". Simply put, this is the assigning of a superior grade to an inferior diamond, with rather obvious consequences: the diamond is either overpriced and sold, or priced up, and then discounted to create the illusion of a special value or sale. This is against the law. Industry experts have estimated that nearly three times the number of G-H VVS1 -VVS2 diamonds are sold in America each year, as are shipped to the American market.

Why does grade creep occur? It can be a result of an inexperienced grader; but more often, grade creep stems from a desire to appear competitive in today's busy marketplace. Misgrading can appear to add 20, 30, 40, even 50% to the value of a diamond.

Grade creep, or more accurately, misgrading of diamonds, is how some diamonds are offered on sale at 50% off.

How can the average consumer be sure of what he is buying in jewelry? Seek a jeweler who is a member of the American Gem Society. An American Gem Society jeweler has the proper education for accurate grading of diamonds, and as a member of the society, he is sworn to accurately represent everything he sells. Membership in the American Gem Society is granted to jewelry firms which have demonstrated unquestioned integrity and professionalism. AGS members must conform to the standards of the Federal Trade Commission, Bureau of Standards and the Council of Better Business Bureaus.

When shopping for fine jewelry, it is always best to do your comparisons among American Gem Society jewelers.

Because the G.I.A. system is confusing to many people, and to protect against the frequent abuse of the G.I.A. diamond grading system, Cross Jewelers has adopted the color and clarity grading scale of our diamond cutter, for our exclusive use in the Portland market (Cross to G.I.A. translations are available). By using our own grading system, we can maintain it as pure and true. Following is the Cross Diamond Grading System.

Ideal Proportions of a Diamond  

  Cross Quality Diamond Grading

Cut		Color			Clarity
Cross		Cross	GIA		Cross	GIA
0		VFB Colorless	E		0	Flawless
1		FB	F		1	VVS1
2		A	G		2	VVS2
3		AX	H		3	VS1
4		BX	I		4	VS2
5		B	J		5	SI1
6		C	K		6	SI2
7		D	L		7	I1
8		E	M		8	I2
9		F	N		9	I3
10		G	O-Z		10	.

· Cross' grading scale for Cut shows the Ideal Cut, and then departures in beauty and brilliance from the Ideal Cut. The scale is Cross' own, and has been used by us for more than fifteen years. It is not meant to be confused with the old or newly revised AGS cut grading scale.

* Ideal proportions provide maximum brilliancy, consistent with a high degree of dispersion (rainbow colors). Ideal proportions is the standard against which all diamonds are measured.

· Rare and in limited supply. May be individually priced.

The last issue to examine regarding a diamond's value is its weight. Most consumers will reasonably assume that a "half- carat" diamond will weigh .50 carat; or at least half. However, some retailers will interpret diamond weights as loosely as they interpret color and clarity - this means that the diamond you select may not weigh what you have been told.

When the word "approximately" is used in describing a diamond's weight, the actual weight of the diamond may range from, for instance, under 1/2 carat, to over 1/2 carat. To see how approximate weights can affect the value of a diamond, let us return one last time to our example of a half-carat diamond, G color, and VS1 clarity. Assuming an average cutting grade (a 5 on Cross' cutting quality scale), note the range of values for these diamonds, each weighing "approximately 1/2 carat":

You can see here again, that "disappearing discount"-a half carat diamond may be advertised at 35% off, but if the actual weight of the diamond is .42 carat, the discount is merely an illusion.

Something as small, and as valuable as a diamond is weighed precisely, and priced per carat, according to its quality. Jewelers don't buy diamonds by approximate weights, and neither should you. The motive here is clear: by talking about a 1/2 carat diamond and a seemingly discounted price, the retailer creates the idea of substantial savings-but may deliver less than what you have been led to believe.

When you purchase a diamond, insist on a precise weight. Experience tells us that you very seldom get more, and very often get less than you paid for when you buy an approximate weight diamond. You don't buy "about half a tank of gas", or even "about half a pound of cheese"-you buy a specific amount of something, priced at a specific price per specific unit of measure. When dealing with something as valuable as a diamond, be sure you know what you are paying for.

The situations we have summarized here are based on customers experiences.  As a general guideline, the bigger the discount, the bigger the questions should emerge regarding the actual weight, quality and value. As the familiar saying goes, If it looks too good to be true, it probably is too good to be true."

Cross, as Portland's oldest family-owned jewelry store, has a tradition of excellence which spans four generations. The philosophy which guides our store is that all jewelry must be made from the best precious metals, designed for beauty, designed to last, set with the finest gems and accurately represented. Our philosophy and commitment to excellence is your greatest assurance that anything you buy from Cross will represent true value and provide maximum satisfaction.

For over three quarters of a century, Cross Jewelers has maintained a consistent, conservative pricing philosophy that allows you to shop with the "real price" on every piece of jewelry in our store. Items are priced according to their true value- we never have sales or offer discounts, because prices are not inflated to allow for these types of artificial sales techniques. We find that people enjoy shopping in a store where quality is accurately represented and the values are real-365 days of the year.

All Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamonds have a six-digit number, inscribed by a laser beam, onto the girdle of the diamond. This "Hallmark" allows identification and verification of the weight and quality of the diamond at any time.

Ultimate Ideal Cutting: Ultimate Ideal Cutting is simply the most beautiful way to cut a diamond. Only one out of every thousand diamonds cut in the world today achieves the exacting standards of the Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond. Your choice of a Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond gives you the optimal combination of brilliance, dispersion (rainbow colors) and scintillation (sparkle) ... a lifetime of extraordinary beauty.

Diamond Hallmark: All of Cross' Ultimate Ideal Cut diamonds come with a unique form of identification: a laser-inscribed registry number on the girdle (outside edge) of the gem, which positively identifies the diamond and authenticates your ownership. This registry number, called a hallmark is just 4 microns (4-ten thousandths of an inch) high, and is visible only under magnification. Registered to the new owner in the permanent records of Cross Jewelers, the quality grades (cut, color and clarity), as well as the carat weight are also listed in an international diamond registry in New York City. Only Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamonds offer this additional guarantee of quality.

Cross' Diamond Lab: One of the values of buying your diamond from Cross Jewelers is the assurance that your diamond has been weighed, and the quality grading checked and verified by a registered jeweler. By acquiring our diamonds loose, we can guarantee the quality represented is exactly correct. Each Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond has been hand selected from hundreds, to provide the very best quality and value.

Finest Diamond Mounting: A Cross Diamond solitaire mounting starts with the part which holds the diamond. called the head. Forged from a single block of 18K white gold alloyed with platinum, the head goes through 12 individual die strikings, using 55 tons of pressure in each step. The result is the strongest, most durable head ever made. The part of the ring which encircles the finger is called the shank, and is crafted from two rectangular blocks of 18K yellow gold. Like the head, the shank sections go through multiple die-strikings, the 55 tons of pressure squeeze out all the air bubbles, densely compacting the atoms of gold. After the head and shank sections are assembled, the ring mounting is ready for finishing. The die striking results in a ring which accepts an extraordinarily high polish, for a beautiful ring which will hold Cross' most beautiful diamonds.  Several other methods of construction design are used in the many hundreds of styles offered by our stores.

Cross' Diamond Setting Shop: Cross' Diamond Setting Shop is staffed by America's finest diamond setters, and is visible from our showroom. The first rule of our diamond setting shop is, "take whatever amount of time is necessary to set the diamond most securely and most beautifully." Few people realize that, at the moment a properly weighted prong is pushed over the edge of a diamond, over 45 pounds of pressure is exerted on that diamond. Careful preparations are required to ensure that the precious metal on which the diamond rests is perfectly smooth, and properly supports the diamond. Because of their value, diamonds are never set "while you wait" at Cross Jewelers. Any time pressure on a diamond setter increases the risk to the diamond. For the safety of your diamond, setting in our shop is always scheduled within a block of time, allowing maximum time for all preparation details. The safety and security of your diamond depends on the quality of the mounting, the philosophy of the diamond setting shop, and most importantly, the skills and attention to detail by the diamond setter. If you would like to learn more about diamond setting, ask for a copy of our "Quality of stone setting" guide, written by Cross Jewelers.

Diamond Matching: Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamonds can be matched exactly for cut, color, and clarity at any time in the future. It is surprising how many diamonds sold as single gems are later combined with other diamonds in a new jewelry design. While it is almost impossible to exactly match a non-ideal diamond, because of the wide variations in cutting styles, your opportunity to match any Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond, means maximum design versatility in future years.

Diamond Insurance Appraisal: Every piece of diamond jewelry, valued $350 (current as of 1999) or more sold by Cross Jewelers is accompanied by a typewritten appraisal of value, stating the cut, color, clarity, and carat weight of the diamond(s). You receive two copies, including photographs of your jewelry, allowing you to retain a copy for your records, and to furnish a copy for your insurance company. A third copy is kept in the records of Cross Jewelers.

Cross Diamond Prices are Real: For over three quarters of a century, Cross Jewelers has maintained a consistent, conservative pricing philosophy that allows you to shop with the "real price" on every price of jewelry in our store. Items are priced according to their true value - we never have sales or offer discounts, because prices are not inflated to allow for these types of artificial sales techniques. We find that people enjoy shopping in a store where quality is accurately represented and the values are real - 365 days of the year. When non-ideal cut discount and sale diamonds are accurately graded for cut, color, and clarity, and accurately weighed for their carat weight, their "savings" often not only vanish when compared to an Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond, but may be priced at a premium over the Ideal cut.

Diamond Care Kit: Part of our commitment to keeping your Cross diamond as beautiful as the day you buy it, is our free diamond care kit, given with any diamond purchase. The Care Kit contains a bottle of our professional jewelry cleaner, Cross' Wear Care Guide, Cross Kitchen Ring Hook, and our refrigerator magnet reminder for the semiannual free cleaning and examination recommended with any stone-set ring.

Cross is a Teaching Jewelry Store: We have always found that whenever consumers have the facts, they make informed decisions and have the highest level of satisfaction in their purchase. Our entire staff is committed to taking any amount of time necessary to answer your questions and give you the background information necessary to make a decision concerning gems and jewelry.

Ultimate Ideal Cutting is simply the most beautiful way to cut a diamond. To a jeweler, it is gratifying to see that once an individual understands what provides the ultimate beauty in diamonds, he will overwhelmingly choose the Cross Ultimate Ideal Cut diamond. Your choice of a Cross Ideal Cut diamond is a symbol of your love which she will enjoy every day for the rest of her life.

Trade-in Consideration: Due to the increasingly slim margins by which high value fine diamonds are sold, a request for trade-in is on a case by case review, reflecting current market conditions for diamond values of that size, cut, color, and clarity, regional demand, and our own stock needs. Like stocks, bonds, fine homes, art and collectibles, diamond values can vary over time, both up and down.

No guarantee for trade-in exists except as it may appear in writing on the appraisal issued with the diamond when it is purchased. No verbal statements or recollections of verbal statements hold any validity, only written and signed documentation attesting to a trade-in value.

Any item offered for a trade-in will be reviewed for condition. Mountings are generally not counted in trade-ins, only the center diamond. Cross' trade-in consideration is for round diamonds, not fancy-cut diamonds. An offer, if made, is based on pristine condition of the diamond after it has been unset and reviewed. Diamonds must be seen before an offer can be made.  UDNov 99